Enjoy the relative solitude of Colorado National Monument’s otherworldly formations. “The Monument,” as locals call it, is the Colorado Plateau’s eastern gateway. The plateau’s Red Rock Country is full of colorful rocks. They include domes, fins, hoodoos, reefs, natural bridges, and slot canyons.
The National Park Service has nine properties in theColorado Plateau. Except for the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, “The Monument” is less crowded and more compact than any of the plateau’s national parks.
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Colorado National Monument’s position makes it the perfect portal for a larger Colorado Plateau road trip. Alternatively, experience the wonderland on its own. Cyclists, hikers, and rock climbers will find a paradise here. The same goes for those who want to encounter spectacular views from their cars. The rocks’ colors range from cream to rust. Sagebrush bushes, juniper trees, and pinyon-juniper woodland speckle the rocks with flecks of green.
The 20,500-acre, 32-square-mile monument is half an hour west ofGrand Junction. It’s 17 miles east of the Utah line on Interstate 70, nearly halfway between Denver and Salt Lake City. The park charges an entrance fee. However, save on park fees withpark passes.
Grand Junction Regional Airport (GJT) offers flights to several hubs.
Book flights, hotels, and car rentals in the ad above.
Fruita is an hour and a half from Moab, Utah. Enjoy the tours in the ad below.
Otto convinces the President to proclaim a national monument
President William Taftestablishedthe ColoradoNational Monumentwith a presidential proclamation on May 24, 1911. It was the state’s second national monument. Five years before Taft’s proclamation, John Otto saw the future monument’s red rock canyons. He soon decided that they should become a national park. Finally, he convinced the President to attend the 1909 Peach Festival. Taft liked what he saw and established the monument two years later.
Tips about visiting the Colorado National Monument
Summer temperatures at the monument can be brutal, with triple-digit highs. The red rocks reflect heat, and shade is sparse. Therefore, start summer hikes in the early morning.
Spring and fall are the best seasons to visit, and winters are mild. After a snowfall, the white highlights the rocks for breathtaking views.
In any season, drink plenty of water, wear a broad-brimmed hat, use sunscreen, and follow the park’ssafety tipsto ensure a perfect day.
The elevation ranges from 4,000 to 7,000 feet. Because of this, prepare for altitude; avoid altitude sickness withthese tips.
Staying hydrated is key in the monument’s aridity and altitude. Add lemon slices to your water to maintain your electrolyte balance. Eating carbohydrates will also help with altitude adjustment.
Eat at picnic tables at Devil’s Kitchen and outside the visitors center.
Register for abackcountry camping permitat the Saddlehorn Visitors Center for even more solitude. Water is unavailable in the backcountry, so plan to bring a gallon (4 liters) per person daily in the summer. Refill your water at the station outside the visitor center, which is open 24 hours a day.
Explore the monument’s scenic Rim Rock Drive
The historic 23-mileRim Rock Drivefeatures spectacular views at every bend in the road. The scenic drive wiggles through six red rock canyons with distinctive cliffs and sandstone monoliths.
In fairness, switch drivers so that each driver will enjoy the sights. The narrow, winding road hugs the canyons’ cliffs, putting you on top of the scenery. Some stops provide easy access to miles of trails. The monument has two main entrances but start at the Grand Junction entrance for the best experience. The passenger side will see the views better, and the turn-offs will be on the right side. You’ll only have left turns into two scenic overlooks. Many of the stops offer short walks. The route requires an hour without stops, but you must stop.
Roxie’s reliable recommendation:Leave your RV at your campground because the road isnottrailer-friendly. Driving through the park allows lowlanders to acclimate to the altitude before more strenuous activities. Share the road with cyclists.
Related: Explore Southeast Montana’s Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area.
Eight perfect Colorado National Monument overlooks
The drive includes 19 overlooks, but we recommend these the most.
Pack a picnic and eat at the Devil’s Kitchen Picnic Area. Then, stretch your legs on the moderate 1.5-mile round-trip Devil’s Kitchen Trail. The kitchen’s rocks loom over visitors like devils.
The edgy Cold Shivers Point feels like riding on a shark’s fin, so cue upTheme From Jaws. I half expected the shark to throw me off its 300-foot fin.
At Artists Point, the Squaw Fingers formation juts from the ground south of the point. I thought the “fingers” looked more like broken teeth. Look for blackish-reddesert varnishstaining some of the rocks. Indigenous people often carved rock art into desert varnish so it would stand out.
At the co*ke Ovens Overlook, the squatty bulbs reminded me of giant wax bottle candies.
A kissing couple, a pipe organ, and more in Colorado National Monument
You approach Grand View through the claustrophobia-inducing Half Tunnel. Then the curtain rises. The Kissing Couple, Independence Monument, The Island, and the Pipe Organ offer themselves for your viewing delight. TheGrand Mesa, the world’s largest flat-top mountain, dominates the horizon. Come early for the fantastic sunrises.
Independence Monument View offers an unobstructed vista of the park’s tallest monolith. Arrive early on Independence Day to watch theMesa County rescue teamplant the American flag on top of the 450-foot fin. Otto began the tradition on July 4, 1911.
TheSaddlehorn Visitor Centeroffers more incredible views. While at the center, watch the park videos and look for Otto’s monument. Afterward, explore several easyshort trails. One of them, theCanyon Rim Trail,is an easy half-mile one-way hike from the Saddlehorn Visitors Center to the Book Cliffs View. It follows the cliff edge above the colorful Wedding Canyon. Keep a close eye on children.
On the road’s final section, prepare for five hairpin curves in a row, two tunnels, and Dead Man’s Curve.
TheRed Canyon Overlooklooks directly down Red Canyon. Winter freezing and thawing pries off canyon rock slabs especially on the shady side. The sunny side erodes less. Look at the northeast canyon bottom for a distinctive gunsight notch.
Roxie’s reliable report: Cold Shivers, Independence Monument, Fruita Canyon, and the Historic Trails overlooks, the Devils Kitchen Picnic Area, and the visitor center are all accessible. Consider using trekking poles at the other overlooks. Always stay behind the fences.
Related: Explore the Kansas rocks tour.
Find arches on Black Ridge Road
Add an adventure to your drive. From Rim Rocks Drive’s highest point, Black Ridge Road heads west 13 miles toRattlesnake Canyonin Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness.
However, onlyfour-wheel drive, high-clearance vehicles, or all-terrain vehicles should attempt this road. The road is impassable when wet; ask park rangers about road conditions.
Your reward for all this effort? Thirty-five stone arches. The collection is the second-largest arch collection outsideArches National Park. On a 6.2-mile hike, you’ll see eight arches. Add a half-mile side trip to see one more.
Navigate the perfect road bikers’ challenge
Test your legs and lungs on the park’s roads. Riding the entirecyclist’s looprequires all 23 of Rim Rock Drive’s miles, plus 10 more miles of connecting roads. The road climbs 2,300 vertical feet, with the steepest grades near both entrances.
Beware: Many trucks use the southern 4 miles of Rim Rock to supply the Glade Park community. Because of this, the park has installed aBicycle Safety Warning Systemin the area. Allow 3 hours for the full route.
Roxie’s reliable report:The park does not offer mountain biking opportunities. Instead, try the challengingLunch Loops in Grand Junction.
Hiking serpents, and weddings, and corkscrews. Oh, my!
Otto created many of the park’s roads and trails, and the Civilian Conservation Corps continued his work. Unfortunately, nine of the CCC workers died in an explosion. Experience the fruits oftheir laboron theCCC Trail. Watch for desert bighorn sheep where the trail intersects theBlack Ridge Trail.
The steepSerpents Trailslithers through 16 switchbacks in 1.75 miles. The trail was the original park road from the 1900s until 1950. Park at the trailhead near the east entrance or the Devils Kitchen Picnic Area.
Wedding Canyon named for a short-lived relationship
Wedding Canyon got its name in 1911 when Otto married Boston artist Beatrice Farnham at Independence Monument’s base. Wedded blisseluded the couplebecause Otto wanted to live in a tent. His wife didn’t, and she left.
She said, “I tried hard to live his way. [However,] I could not live with a man to whom even a cabin was an encumbrance.”
TheWedding Canyon Trailconnects to theMonument Canyon Trailat Independence Monument. Start hiking in Wedding Canyon, which is mostly uphill. In the morning, the rocks provide shade. Monument Canyon is mostly downhill from Independence Monument. Both trails are rated intermediate to difficult. Allow at least 3 hours for the loop.
Think of the route as a metaphor for the Ottos’ short marriage.
Corkscrews and canyons at Colorado National Monument
The 1.3-mile point-to-pointCorkscrew Trail’s name fits well. The switchback-filled difficult trail begins on theLower Liberty Cap Trail. It weaves into and out of a dry wash, then climbs upslickrock. Enjoy gorgeous views of the metamorphic cliffs, but make sure to watch for the trail cairns. Search for rock art at theUte Canyon Trailjunction.
No Thoroughfare Canyonstarts as a maintained trail with 400-foot canyon walls towering over hikers. About a mile into the hike, a small pool awaits. Enjoy a picnic, and continue less than a mile to a waterfall. The unmaintained trail continues to the upper trailhead on Little Park Road. Bring a compass and a topographic map. Check the weather because flash flooding is an ever-present danger.
In contrast, the 7-mileUte Canyon Trailis steep and has a 1,640-foot elevation change. The unmaintained trail descends into narrow Ute Canyon from the plateau and then follows a stream bed.
A rock climber’s dream: 275 perfect climbing days
For 275 days a year, the monument’s forecast is for perfect rock climbing weather.Park rock climbingbegins withOtto’s Route, one of the best routes for beginners.Devils Kitchencooks up several canyoneering routes, including theLemon Squeezer.
Roxie’s reliable report:Unaweep Canyon, 40 minutes southeast of the monument, is filled with excellent, lightly-used climbing routes.
Your perfect dinosaur hunting day
You can visit Fruita’sDinosaur Journeymuseum near the park’s Fruita entrance, or hike theeasy Dinosaur Hill Trailto see fossils in the ground.
In addition, why not improve your game? Join the Museums of Western Colorado’spaleontology expeditions, including the full gamut of experiences, half-day, full-day, and advanced options.
Related: Petrified tree stumps and tiny fossils await at Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument.
Fruita’s hilarious dinosaur
Grrreta is a large green dinosaur sculpture inCircle Park. I asked my husband to mimic Grrreta for a picture. He was wearing a green shirt, and he looked so funny in his dinosaur pose. I doubled over, laughing hysterically. He started yelling, “Take the picture! People are staring at me!”
Perfect places to eat and stay
Fruita’sComfort Inn and Suites(ad) is across the road from Dinosaur Journey and 4 minutes from the park’s northern entrance. Camp atJunction West – Grand Junction or Canyon View RV Resort, minutes from Colorado National Monument.
The movie shortLife of Pietells the story of Jen Zenuer and Anne Keller, who ownDetroit-styleHot Tomato Pizza. They make their dough by hand and proof it for 24 hours before serving. Try the Badabing Pizza.
Savor delights from the ultimate high country atKarma Kitchen, serving Indian and Nepalese cuisine. Eat the cheese-garlic naan and the lamb vindaloo.
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